• Nouveau_Burnswick@lemmy.world
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    8 months ago

    Best:

    Network rack, unifi wifi, and cabling

    Home assistant

    Zigbee devices.

    Smart heating/cooling

    Automated lights

    Hacked T6Es

    Worst:

    Batteried smart blinds (with not battery level reporting)

    Bed mat sensors (some issues)

    • andrew@lemmy.stuart.fun
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      8 months ago

      Haven’t watched the video yet, but I’m a huge fan of our plug-in z-wave smart blinds. Makes getting all that extra light way easier and automatable.

      • Nouveau_Burnswick@lemmy.world
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        8 months ago

        In short, the issue was that the battery blinds don’t alert when they are low battery, and he didn’t think to hard-wire them in advance.

        Ones that are close enough to power, he’s run some 5v lines on an automation timer.

        • spongebue@lemmy.world
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          8 months ago

          I also got Z-wave shades from Bali when Home Depot had a 50% off custom window treatments sale. They’ve been wonderful, and integrate with Home Assistant very nicely overall. Battery lasts a long time (about 6 months of use, with a daily “round trip” and they’re still at about 60%) and status gets reported back. One piece on one shade got machined weirdly so I couldn’t use the Z-wave, and they were happy to send a replacement.

          Bali is manufactured by a company called Springs Window Fashions. Might be worth looking into them and their other brands too!

          Oh, and Home Depot has sample material books you can take home for a night to see what would work best for you.

        • andrew@lemmy.stuart.fun
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          8 months ago

          I ordered them through Lowes and they had all sorts of options for connectivity and power, including just old school chains. Looks like they’re Bali brand.

  • peregus@lemmy.world
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    8 months ago

    A couple of words about the video wouldn’t have been so bad.

    Edit: By the way, very nice video! I’ll have a look at the others too.

  • d2k1@lemmy.dbzer0.com
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    8 months ago

    I wonder what his big ZigBee issue was that took him months to solve.

    From the vague description it could be that his ZigBee stick was plugged directly into the USB port instead of using a USB extension cable, thus subjecting the ZigBee stick to all sorts of RF interference from the motherboard.

    Or maybe the USB pass-through to the home assistant VM was wonky?

    Edit: he talks about getting 30$ worth of hardware to fix the issue so it is probably not just a USB extension cable 🤔

    • sabreW4K3OP
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      8 months ago

      I think it was probably where the coordinator was plugged in

    • KairuByte@lemmy.dbzer0.com
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      8 months ago

      An issue a lot of people don’t think about is placement. If you’ve got the fob directly next to a device that’s broadcasting WiFi, you’re gonna have a bad time. Similarly, if it’s surrounded by thick wood or metal, you’re not going to have decent signal.

      $30 could definitely fix those issues.

    • Doxin@pawb.social
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      8 months ago

      Or he was using the conbee II which a fair number of top google results suggest you get. Don’t, it’s terrible.

  • reddig33@lemmy.world
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    8 months ago

    Homebridge covers a multitude of mistakes. For every non compatible device, you can usually find a Homebridge plug in that’ll make it work. The only exception I’ve run into is with Chamberlain garage door openers because the company is particularly aggressive about funneling you through their app.

    • Pohl@lemmy.world
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      8 months ago

      I ended up making an awesome esphome rig for my garage door. An esp32 board, a magnetic switch for position detection and a little relay that closes for .5s connected to the wall button wires.

      Super simple and it works crazy well. It also cuts out all the proprietary shit the manufacturer would prefer I use.

      • Jakor@lemmy.world
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        8 months ago

        RatGDO can do this without the need for a magnetic switch. It’s a simple ESP32 board with easy-to-terminate wire terminals. It also lets you control the lights on your opener, see the current status of the door, and even open the door to an exact in-between position (if your door supports it).

        You can program your own ESP32 if you like, or buy one from the guy that made it directly for ~$40.

        Still - props to you for making your own solution! I know it’s extra satisfying when you can homebrew your own smart home solutions from scratch - just wanted to share another solution for people who don’t have the same skills.